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Southern California Surfing at its Finest

About

I was born and raised in Pasadena, California in 1955. I started surfing in 1967 on a 9′ 6″ board my cousin Rose gave me. I don’t remember the make at that time and I really didn’t give a damn. She told me it used to belong to Corky Carroll (wish I still had it). My home break was Surfside, California, just south of Seal Beach. I started surfing in that transition period between long and short boards. In 1969 my parents bought me a 7′ 6″ Harbour for my birthday. Man, that was a great board. One night though, some piece of crap a**hole stole it and I never saw it again.

After I got my driver’s license and bought my VW bus, my world changed. We would load up the boards and head out, either up to Ventura or south to San Diego, checking out all the spots in between. In the early ’70s there was still plenty of empty coastline to check out. Salt Creek wasn’t surrounded by houses; in fact, you had to watch out for the guard on horseback. A lot of times we would camp in San Clemente State Park and plan where to go in the morning. We had a friend whose parents, after high school, moved to the cliffs above Blacks and man, it was freakin’ awesome. He had “THE KEY”. Anyways, in those days we didn’t have Surfline or cellphones. Hell, I don’t know if anyone had a cellphone or computer. So you would just cruise the coast checking out your spots. Gas was only like 65 cents per gallon so it wasn’t bad.

Well, I started working construction, got married and had kids. We moved up to the desert to raise our kids and start a small farm. We had all of it – pigs, horses, sheep, chickens – the whole thing. I got away from surfing in those days but never really lost the urge to get back in it. Now, sometime in 2007, another cousin, John, gave me a 10′ board and said I should get back in the water. I had my own construction company and for stress relief and my overall health he figured it would be good for me. I had a guy working for me that surfed the Ventura area, so Dave recommended Mondos since it is kind of a slow wave and a good area for beginners or people like me trying to get our feet wet again. Well, I took his advice and went out. On my second wave I was up and stoked all over again. I don’t go out as much as I’d like but when I do, all is right with the world.

This website is for all of us who grew up surfing So Cal, whether you live at the beach or inland, are a pro or a kook, or go everyday or whenever you can. It’s for all of us that know what it’s like and how great it makes us feel, it’s for those who are looking for “all that’s right in the world”.